Gel Nails: Your Guide To The Ultimate Long Lasting Manicure (2024)

Since the initial launch of gel nails in the 1980s, formulations have come a long way - it’s now an invention known for its long lasting, smudge proof and gorgeously glossy finish. There’s no doubt - gel manicures have earned their rightful place in the beauty treatment hall of fame. Yet, despite its popularity it’s not a method without its controversy. So, what’s the low-down? We garnered some time with Emma Brown, resident nail artist at Young LDN and RidahSyed, Senior Medical Aesthetician at Skinfluencer to answer all your most Googled questions about gel nails, from why they’re so long lasting to how much they cost as well as any safety considerations to keep in mind.

Let’s start with the basics. What are gel nails? 'Gel nails refer to the application of a soft gel in place of a normal polish,' says Brown. 'It's applied the same way, but usually goes on a touch thicker. Gel then needs to be cured with a UV or LED lamp and usually follows a three step process that includes a base coat, colour coat and a top coat. As it's cured by the lamp, there's no drying time needed.' It’s this curing process that really bolsters the longevity of your manicure. 'The cured gel polish strengthens and hardens the nail meaning your colour will be more longer lasting and considerably more shiny.'

How long do gel manicures last?

'Gel manicures have a general lifetime of about two weeks,' explains Brown. 'If they have been looked after i.e. the nails have not been used as tools, the hands have not been soaking in water consistently, and the person has worn gloves for cleaning then a gel manicure can last up to three weeks or a little longer.'

The good news? Usually, it’s only the regrowth that indicates it’s time to schedule in a new appointment. Gel polish is resistant to chips and can maintain its flawless finish much longer than traditional polishes, making it a great option for those who are on the go.

Me personally? I really rate gel manicures. I'm a beauty editor, so feeling polished and put together is important to me. I religiously schedule in an appointment every four weeks and the only "flaw" I'll see is the eventual regrowth. Besides a slick of cuticle oil in the evenings the upkeep is minimal until my next visit to the salon. Would recommend.'

What is the difference between soft gel, BIAB and hard gel?

We're the first to admit it - there's a lot of iterations out there. Brown helps to break things down.

'The difference between soft gel, hard gel, and BIAB (builder in a bottle) comes down to flexibility, wear time, strength, and thickness,' she explains. 'Soft gel is most flexible on the nail and the thinnest of the three. It can be applied directly to the natural nails. When people refer to BIAB this is a type of thicker gel polish. While still flexible, it can be used on the natural nail to help prevent the nails from breaking, and therefore help them grow in length. It can also be used to extend the nail.'

And as for hard gel?

'Hard gel can also be used to extend the nail but it's is thicker and stronger than BIAB and therefore much less flexible,' Brown explains. 'In terms of flexibility a soft gel will chip or peel when bent, a BIAB may chip if bent with force, and a hard gel will crack and snap if bent with hard force. Of course, the strongest gel will have the longest wear time. Hard gel and BIAB can also be infilled after around four weeks so the wear time is even longer before an actual full removal is needed. Hard gel can also be infilled more times than BIAB before a full removal is needed.'

And what's the difference between gel and shellac?

'CND shellac is actually a type of soft gel, and probably the gentlest of the gel brands,' Brown explains. 'It works best when applied very thinly and is very flexible.'

How much do gel nails cost?

The cost of your gel manicure is usually dependant on where you live. It's not unusual for a central London salon to charge £70 for a gel manicure. Smaller, more independent salons or individuals may charge around the £20 mark.

Can gel nails damage your nails?

The answer? It's a yes, according to Brown.

'Some people's nails are naturally stronger or thicker so can take more damage from gels before it is noticeable. Other are naturally thinner and after one round of gel the damage is very noticeable.'

It's also extremely important to pick a reputable salon to minimise the risk of damage, or even infection.

'Always ensure you're using a qualified manicurist who sterilises their tools properly,' advises Brown. 'Don't be afraid to ask them what precautions they take to ensure a sanitary working environment - someone professional will be only too happy to answer any questions you might have. It may also be helpful look at online reviews first to ensure there's no red flags.'

Soft gel damage

'Gel nails can damage your natural nails,' she says, 'But this is dependent on the type of gels and your nails as a whole. Soft gel does minimal damage to the nails when removed correctly. The reason people find it can damages the nails is the repetition. Because soft gels do not last as long they have to be removed more often causing minimal damage more often.'

BIAB damage

'BIAB causes minimal damage if removed correctly and has the benefit of infills so doesn't need to be fully removed as often. However, if removed incorrectly it can cause more damage as it is thicker.'

Hard gel damage

'Hard gel can cause damage to the nails as they can only be removed by filing the hard gel away,' says Brown. 'Whilst filing the natural nails will inevitably be hit and filled away as well. Hard gels have the benefit of infills but when it is time to remove the only choice is to file them or let them fully grow out.'

The solution? Giving your nails a break from time to time, and opting for nail fortifying products as an alternative.

Are gel manicures safe?

'In terms of UV damage there still more research that needs to be done to the extent of any damage that happens,' says Brown. 'It is theorised that any damage caused by UV would be minimal. However, there is no harm in following the rules of "better safe than sorry." A little sunscreen on the hands before starting the gel will protect the hands in general.'

And Syed is in agreement. 'Warning signs that your hands are becoming damaged are premature aging and pigmentation. Damage to the nail might also be indicated by discolouration such as a brown, black or red line that may appear. I would use a factor 30-50 SPF that is water resistant and apply it 30 minutes before the appointment.'

How can you remove gel nails at home?

You can remove gel at home with a few things:

'For soft gel, break your cotton pads into ten tiny pieces and cut the aluminium foil in ten medium sized squares that can wrap around the fingertips. Also apply cuticle oil to the nails, this will help the gels come off and protect the skin a little.'

Step 2

'Then using the nail file buff the layers of the gel until all the shine of the nails is removed. It is also good to buff a little of the colour off as well.'

Step 3

Apply acetone to the cotton pad piece. Place it on top of the nail and wrap it with the aluminium foil folding the foil round itself and then folding the extra foil on the finger tip down. Do this one finger at a time and then wait for around ten minutes, then one finger at a time remove the foil and push the gel off the nail with the wood stick.

For BIAB gel you would want to file the nails more and take away more layers before soaking in acetone. It would also need to be soaked twice, using the wood stick to remove the lifting gel then soaking again. And for hard gel it isn't recommended to try and remove it from home as it doesn't soak. Instead go to the salon or let them fully grow off.

Best Gel Nail Designs 2024

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Rachael Martin is Grazia's Junior Beauty Editor where she covers all things beauty, health and wellness